The real Riga. What is it? For most visitors it’s the old town and a bit of Jugendstil if you’re pretending to be cultured and want to show your family that, no, you didn’t spend your entire holiday contemplating the bottom of a beer glass or how eastern Europe ain’t cheap any more. Having spent a good six years doing just that I thought it was time to see a bit more of Riga. To boldly go where tourists and most residents have never been before. Is Mežaparks really the best area of Riga? Is it possible to visit Bolderāja without getting your head kicked in by local urlas? Is Purvciems (swamp town) really as bad as the name? Do the 98 residents of Salas enjoy a thriving local bar scene? This blog is really an attempt to answer all those burning questions, through visiting all 58 districts, taking photos and having a drink in them. The original idea was to visit a bar in each of them, but despite having one of the highest rates of alcohol consumption in the world, neighbourhood bars are a bit thin on the ground outside the centre. So in some of them it will have to be photos on some random street, often (for security reasons) trying to blend in by looking like the local santimless bum rather than a tourist with a mad photo project.